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Samothraki doesn’t top the list of the most famous Greek islands.
But it is famous among Greeks for its rugged, super lush landscapes, laid-back summer festivals and vathres. These natural rock pools with ice cold water, are formed by the many streams and rivers that flow down from the mountain and make for the most popular camping spots in the summer.
For that, Samothraki is known as the alternative island. It attracts a certain kind of laid-back, guitar-holding, festival-dancing traveler—there’s even a nickname for them in Greek.
But I digress.
As someone less fond of the hot summer months, I believe that a lot of popular places come alive when everyone else leaves.
Samothraki in autumn is nearly empty, perfect for those seeking solitude and better temperatures for hiking to the top.
Samothraki sits off the coast of Alexandroupoli in northern Greece, reachable by ferry. Unlike many Greek islands known for beaches and nightlife, Samothraki attracts hikers, nature lovers, and those who want to explore beyond the usual sun-and-sea scene.
You’ll feel at home here if you don’t need fancy hotels, restaurants, or organized beaches with sunbeds.
Do you need a car in Samothraki?
A car is almost essential on Samothraki, especially in the off-season. Public transport is limited and often unreliable after September, and many key sites, like the trailhead for Mount Saos, the waterfalls, and the Sanctuary of the Great Gods are spread out and you don’t want to rely on taxis.
We brought our own car on the ferry from the mainland, which made things much easier.
If you’re visiting from another place in mainland Greece, I always recommend checking Discovercars for rental prices. It’s a good way to compare options and get the best deal.
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Why hike in Samothraki?
Mount Saos (Σάος), also called Fengari (“the Moon”), is the island’s highest peak at 1,611 meters. It’s a serious climb (or so it felt to me). Steep, rocky, and occasionally overgrown, with views from the top that are worth every step.
In autumn, the mountain trails are quiet, and the waterfalls—like Fonias—often have more water than in summer. The cooler temperatures make the hike more manageable than in July and August.
We opted to do the hike to the top of the mountain only (which was enough), and didn’t visit any waterfalls or pools.
Other things to note
- Quiet Season: After September, the island is almost deserted. Most tavernas and shops close, and tourist services wind down. When we visited over the October 28th weekend (a Greek national holiday), it was the last day many tavernas were open. If you travel after that, bring more supplies, including food, water, and gear.
- No Facilities on the Mountain: There are no mountain huts or services on Mount Saos. You’re on your own.
- Trail Conditions: Some trails are marked, but not always well maintained. A map or GPS is highly recommended, as always. There are little piles of stones from previous hikers to mark the trail, and a few red dots at the start.
Things to Do on a Weekend Escape
Visit the castle of Samothraki
We started our trip by driving up to the Castle of Samothraki, also called the Gateluzzi Castle. It’s perched above the main town and offers great views of the port and coastline. The castle dates back to the 15th century, but these days it’s mostly ruins. When we visited, the place was quiet—no open cafés or kiosks in sight—so if you’re hoping for coffee with a view, bring your own.
Visit the Sanctuary of the Great Gods
After the castle, we drove to the Sanctuary of the Great Gods, the site where the Nike of Samothrace was found. The ruins are atmospheric, even if the famous statue now stands in the Louvre. It was a bit emotional seeing the empty pedestal and imagining her standing there. Entry is affordable (around €3), but check opening hours because they can vary, especially in the off-season.
Check out the museum
Next, we visited the Archaeological Museum, right next to the sanctuary. While the Nike isn’t here, there are other interesting finds from the site and the rest of the island. It’s a quick visit but worth it to round out the historical picture.
Eat local, when you can find it
After all that exploring, we were ready for a meal. Taverna O Vrahos is a well-known spot that usually serves local goat (katsikaki). When we were there, they were out of goat, but the rest of the meal was hearty and satisfying. Most places close in autumn, so check ahead or be prepared for limited choices.
Hiking Mountain Saos in October
The next morning, we got up early for the Mount Saos hike, starting from Therma. The trail is a mix of forest, barren land, and a lot of boulders at the top. Estimated times vary wildly; we’d planned for 10 hours up and down, but it ended up closer to 16. I blame my knees and weak legs on the downhill—it felt like every step was painful, and the descent took as long as the climb.
We only crossed paths with five other hikers, so you wouldn’t call it busy. Running late on the way down, we only found a small raki shop still serving food. We asked politely for as much mezedes as possible…anything to refuel after a full day of hiking.
Other trails and areas around the mountain are probably best tackled with experienced guides or a local who knows the terrain. Conditions can change fast, especially in autumn, and trail markers aren’t always reliable.
We were lucky to be there on a particularly warm night, so even at 11pm the forest was warm and inviting. Almost too inviting—we almost would have napped right there under the stars if we weren’t so hungry.
Where to stay in Samothraki in the off season
We stayed at Akrotiri Studios, close to the port, which worked well for us. It was simple but convenient, especially since most of the island shuts down after September. I wouldn’t recommend staying too far from Kamariotissa in the off-season—it’s where you’ll find what little is open.
A few tavernas and shops hang on into late autumn, but options are limited. Book ahead and plan accordingly.
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
Must Know When Visiting Greece
- Emergency: Dial 112 for all emergencies. For police, dial 100. For ambulance 166. For fire dial 199.
- Language: English is widely spoken in most tourist areas. Common phrases to learn are “Kalimera” (Good morning), “Yia” (Hello and Bye – informal), and “Efharisto” (Thank you).
- Water: Tap water is safe in Athens, mainland Greece and a small number of islands. Always ask beforehand.
- Driving: Right-hand side, international driving permit recommended. Book your rental car with Discover Cars for the best rates and comparisons across all major and local companies.
- Accommodation: Booking.com for the most options on hotels, apartments and hostels. Free cancellation in a lot of places and no need to pre-pay. Great for their rewards points system.
- Islands: There are a lot of islands, spread out around the country. Start with a map or ferry service to get an idea of travel times. Ferry Scanner is the best for ferry bookings to the Greek islands.
- Activities: From cultural sights to day trips, food tours and city guides, use Get Your Guide.
- Public Transport: For Athens, use the Athens Metro. If you are not renting a car, use Trains (Hellenic Train) or KTEL (Public Buses) services.
- Domestic Airlines: The main airlines for air travel are Aegean Airlines and Sky Express. I recommend Aegean Airlines and its rewards program.
- Taxi: Always use a taxi app, instead of flagging down a taxi from the road. Use FREE Now (formerly BEAT).
- Culture: A siesta nap is still common in less touristy areas. This also means businesses will close between 2 PM – 5 PM. Except for hospitality businesses, everything is closed on Sundays.
