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Pelion (or Pilio) as the locals would say it, is one of the most underrated parts of mainland Greece.
It combines incredible beaches, with mountain villages and trekking options, making it a year-round destination.
I have visited Pelion in the summer, but more often than not I’m drawn to the auutmn and winter scenery in the area.
This quick guide will walk you through what to expect when visiting Pelion and idea for things to do while in the area based on your interests.
Where is Pelion and How to Get There?
When looking at the map, you can easily spot the shape of Pelion in between Athens and Thessaloniki. It hugs the Aegean Sea on one side and Pagasetic Gulf on the other.
The easiest way to reach the area is by car. From Athens, expect a drive of about 4.5 hours. From Thessaloniki, it’s just under 3 hours. You will be following the E75 highway for the most part, until you hit the town of Volos. Going up and around the villages and mountain side, you can expect lots of twists and turns (great views) and narrow roads that pass through multiple villages.
The other option if you prefer not to drive is the local bus system, KTEL. You’ll have some options on routes, but not a ton of flexibility. I’d recommend this option if you are mostly after a weekend escape in one spot.
I use and compare prices for car rentals, with Discovercars.com. It is a giant rental and comparison site on the market and it has a lot of perks that make sense if you travel often.
Once you head to Discover Cars, you’ll find an easy search engine to filter by location, dates and pick up location.
Tip: Always check a few different pick up locations when booking a rental car.
Know Before You Go: Planning Your Pelion Trip
One of the biggest challenges people face when visiting Pelion is figuring out where to stay and how much time to plan for. The region is more spread out than most expect, and depending on the season, travel times between villages can be slow.
Before I give you my recommendations, take a moment to think about what kind of traveler you are.
- If you like a base with day trips:
Pick Portaria, Tsagarada, or Milies — these are central enough to explore both mountain and coastal areas without switching hotels every night.
Suggested time: 3–4 nights minimum
- If you’re in full relaxation mode:
Choose Agios Ioannis, Damouchari, or Kala Nera for a sea-facing stay and skip the long drives. You can still do one or two short excursions.
Suggested time: 2–3 nights
- If you want to see everything:
You’ll need to move around. Maybe start inland (Makrinitsa or Milies) and then do a night or two by the sea.
Suggested time: 5+ nights
- If you’re visiting in autumn or winter:
Stay in the mountain villages — Tsagarada, Portaria, or Makrinitsa — where the atmosphere, food, and views are at their best. Avoid remote beach towns, as many close for the season.
TL;DR: The region is diverse, so define your priorities before you book. Trying to do it all in two days will leave you driving more than enjoying.
Best Things to Do in Pelion
Road trip through the villages
Pelion is all about stone. Stone built villages, roads and houses. The main one’s that most people will pass by are Makrinitsa, Portaria, Tsagarada and Milies.
Th first two are closest to Volos, whereas Tsagkarada and Milies are further south, about a 45 minute extra drive from Volos.
- Makrinitsa – Known as the “balcony of Pelion” for its panoramic views over Volos. It’s touristy but worth it.
- Portaria – Right next door to Makrinitsa. Lovely to stay in, with cute cafés and traditional guesthouses.
- Tsagarada – One of the lushest and most charming villages, home to the famous 1,000-year-old plane tree.
- Milies – A quieter spot with a literary past and a lovely old train station.
Makrinitsa
Makrinitsa is a 10-minute drive from Portaria, where you’ll drop your car off at the parking outside the village and walk to explore the stone-built pathways through the village. Good shoes are a must here as you’ll want to do more exploring.
There are a ton of great tavernas and places to check out, as well as the Byzantine Museum if you want to swing by.
The top restaurant here is Kardamo, with amazing views — but you also have lots of options for accommodation, coffee, or sweets. Check out Art Cafe, tucked up on the hill past the village square, or save your caffeine fix for Aeriko, a mecca spot with incredible views right on the road between Portaria and Makrinitsa.
Portaria
Portaria is another village where walking to discover spots is the best approach. Make sure to stop by Agora 1955, an upscale deli with local products and a seasonal menu — top place for coffee as well.
In terms of food, you can’t go wrong with Taverna Galini or Balcony 1963 for grilled meat.
Also make sure to pop into Myrro Tea and Botanicals to pick up handmade cosmetics and spices.
Damouchari Village
Damouchari is one of the more famous spots in Pelion, as it’s where scenes from Mamma Mia were filmed. It’s a tiny port with traditional tavernas and a very local feel. I’d argue that visiting in winter can be incredibly atmospheric.
Ride the little train of Pelion
Think old school steam train, that runs a short 20km ride on weekends only (subject to change).
It’s scenic and nostalgic, great for couples, families and everything in between.
I must admit the routes and set up of this little train confused me a bit in the beginning and I still hvaen’t managed to be in Pelion on a day that it runs.
Best way to do it is drive to Ano Lechonia early (and pre-book is a must), take the hourly drive to Milies, spend the day having food and coffee then ride back to Ano Lechonia.
Even if you don’t time it well though, a visit to the station of Milies is a must for anybody in Pelion. The yellow-painted station amidst the fall colors is a favorite.
Explore incredible beaches
Pelion doesn’t get enough credit for its coastline. If you’re visiting in late spring, summer, or early autumn, you might still catch swimming weather.
Top picks: Mylopotamos, Agios Ioannis, Fakistra, and Papa Nero. Fakistra, in my opinion, is one of the most stunning.
Hike the Centaur Trail
A well-marked short hike starting from Portaria, this trail follows an ancient path through the forest. There are plenty of other trails in the region too — like Tsagarada to Damouchari — depending on how active you want to get.
Enjoy the food
With so much to see and do, you’d think Pelion can’t do it all. But food is a core aspect most locals visit. From traditional tavernas, coffee shops and more gourmet restaurants, it really has it all.
My recommendation if you want to taste local delicacies is spetzofai (sausage and peppers), hilopites (a handmade pasta), katsikaki (slow-roasted goat) and of course tsipouro (a local spirit).
Stop by Volos
Volos is one of Greece’s bigger port cities, and from Portaria, you’re only 25–30 minutes away.
The city is famous for its tsipouradika — tavernas where you order a drink of tsipouro or ouzo and get free small plates of food. I love this style of ordering because you never quite know what you’ll get.
A great spot I was recommend by a local is Galanos, tucked in a quiet square, where the mezedes were excellent. While in the area, check out sailing around Volos.
Shop for local products
Even if you’re not a big shopper, take a moment to browse the local goods. Think liqueurs, jams, chutneys, spoon sweets, teas, and herbs. Chestnuts, apples, and quince are also Pelion staples.
In Makrinitsa, I recommend Peritechno — a charming shop that blends right into the stone and trees next to the village square. It’s been running for 30+ years and has a great variety of gifts and souvenirs.
Take the ferry from Glyfa to Evia
If you have a few extra days and want something different, drive to Glyfa and take the ferry across to northern Evia. The ride is short and scenic, and it drops you near Edipsos (Aidipsos) — one of the most famous spa towns in Greece.
Edipsos is known for its natural thermal springs, some of which flow directly into the sea. The area has been attracting visitors for thousands of years, from Aristotle to modern wellness travelers. You’ll find both public spots where the water runs into small seaside pools, as well as more developed spa hotels offering treatments and indoor facilities.
Go skiing
Yes, really. Pelion has a ski resort with lifts and slopes — a surprise to many visitors. It’s small but functional and makes for a fun winter alternative.
Where to Stay in Pelion
On my last visit, we stayed in Portaria at Portaria Hotel, up on the hill. It’s a great option if you want more amenities than a traditional guesthouse. They offer a spa, outdoor pool in summer, and a free gym.
The food was the real surprise. Instead of a basic buffet, we opted for their course dinner menu — thoughtful flavors, great presentation, and solid value.
Another great nearby option: Karaiskos Farm, especially for those into ecotourism. You can book cooking classes, farm experiences, and get a deeper look into local traditions.
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
Must Know When Visiting Greece
- Emergency: Dial 112 for all emergencies. For police, dial 100. For ambulance 166. For fire dial 199.
- Language: English is widely spoken in most tourist areas. Common phrases to learn are “Kalimera” (Good morning), “Yia” (Hello and Bye – informal), and “Efharisto” (Thank you).
- Water: Tap water is safe in Athens, mainland Greece and a small number of islands. Always ask beforehand.
- Driving: Right-hand side, international driving permit recommended. Book your rental car with Discover Cars for the best rates and comparisons across all major and local companies.
- Accommodation: Booking.com for the most options on hotels, apartments and hostels. Free cancellation in a lot of places and no need to pre-pay. Great for their rewards points system.
- Islands: There are a lot of islands, spread out around the country. Start with a map or ferry service to get an idea of travel times. Ferry Scanner is the best for ferry bookings to the Greek islands.
- Activities: From cultural sights to day trips, food tours and city guides, use Get Your Guide.
- Public Transport: For Athens, use the Athens Metro. If you are not renting a car, use Trains (Hellenic Train) or KTEL (Public Buses) services.
- Domestic Airlines: The main airlines for air travel are Aegean Airlines and Sky Express. I recommend Aegean Airlines and its rewards program.
- Taxi: Always use a taxi app, instead of flagging down a taxi from the road. Use FREE Now (formerly BEAT).
- Culture: A siesta nap is still common in less touristy areas. This also means businesses will close between 2 PM – 5 PM. Except for hospitality businesses, everything is closed on Sundays.
